Drilling a board

I’m setting up a new board it is undrilled…which makes putting the trucks on very hard. Actually it has no marks as to where to drill the holes, which makes the job trickier. I have never drilled a deck before, has anyone here done it ?? Any tips or better still somewhere I can go to get it done?

I think GH should answer this one, as he has been doing a lot of this lately. I’m too something or other to write a long winded explanation rite now.

A hint would be to get out a measuring tape, a pencil, and hope your eye sight is good.

OK this is going to be a little overkill but…

Get the old board out thats always been your fav.
Measure the distance from the tail to the first hole (usually round 6 1/2 - 6 3/4) Duplicate this measurement to you new wood (mark it)
Clamp down your fav on top of your new board, checking from board edge to bolt hole with verniers both sides untill even.
Drill through only one of the laminates on the board.
Take off your template board.
Then make sure your happy with your new hole positions on your blank.
Check holes with verniers again, against the edge of the board to double check
If happy, drill to your hearts content on a bench drill.


Just do what i do and use an ajustable jig.

Oh make sure that those measurements dont exceed your nose by more than 7". I always make the noses pretty much close to 7" for those who use them, any more than that tends to make the board feel a little bargey when Kicking in and turning a rock’n back in giving you mass frot foot movement, having a board like that will make you change it oh so quickly.
Having close to a 7" tail is such a dream. Your board becomes so much more responsive giving your more confidence in not having to worry about if your board will do it or not. And easier to Ollie, not so good for them tight pools though.

I still cant understand why people ride with more than a 4" nose if they dont use it. It only makes the board more resposive. For doing Ollies and nose tricks/grabs its a necessity.

Given the way you ride JG this is my pick.

Starting from the tail
6 3/4" tail
14 1/4" wheel base
nose 6 7/8"

Now did you get all that crap?


Hey GH, I love the board you made for me. Your so right about the tail to nose ratio. It takes a couple of skates to get used to not having a long nose, but well and truly worth it.

I laughed when I read your question Jamesh. Not because it’s silly or anything but because until this year (when I restarted skating) I had never had a deck that had been pre-drilled. I used to make all sorts of decks and have made a few this year for my kids. I was truly shocked when I bought my first separate deck and it had already been drilled. I instantly thought, I reckon that front truck could move forward a bit more to give me more wheelbase and less nose.

Groundhangers advice is excellent. I tend to just rule a line down the center of the board and do the rest by eye.

Speaking of not using the nose. Thats why I ride flat pigs. :laughing:

Nice Scott. I rode some concave for a couple of months there but I’m back on the flat. OG size Big Foot. Peeerrrrfeeeecccctttt fffoooorrrr mmmeeee.

re: board drilling.

I just got a z-cult jay adams sent from US. It came with a note saying “jay has decided to try out a bigger wheel base” (strange, considering he must be trying to turn inside a cell!). It had gone from 14.5 to 16. The tail is less than 6in!

I am stoopid and have no tools. Is there anyone in Sydney or Newcastle who has a nice bench drill and would accept a visit from me?

It can be done with a hand held drill - just make sure you follow the old chippie’s adage of ‘measure three times and drill once’.

The first board I bought after getting back into skating was totally undrilled. I ended up using another board to set out the holes, and checked the pencil marks about 7 times before I drilled. Came out perfect! Pity the deck did’nt last though…

bill, Ill do it for you at bondi with cordless if you like best part is that the holes are already there easy set out 8)